I probably need to take the car out to a road course and put it through its paces to really get it dialed in, but I found that a shock setting of 3 turns from full firm in front, and 3 1/2 turns in the rear provides a pretty good ride. I was really blown away by how much tighter the car feels. I feel more comfortable taking turns faster, and the front doesn't rise under acceleration as much anymore.

The only downside is that now I'll have to get an adjustable Panhard bar for the rear. This is a bar that goes diagonally from the axle to the body in order to keep the axle centered under the car. In lowering the car, it slightly altered the suspension geometry so that the left side of the car now sits about 3/4" higher in the rear. The adjustable Panhard bar will return the axle to the center of the car, and level the back end out. I haven't felt anything distinctly different, but I'm sure there's some "push" from one side.

You can view some pictures after the modifications, and compare them to a "before" picture. The easiest place to notice the difference is in the gap between the wheel well and the tire.

Below are the steps I followed, and all disclaimers apply. If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions on how to make this process better or easier, please let me know!

Gathering the necessary supplies

• Order two 1965 Mustang emblems from Mustangs Unlimited. I would recommend against getting the 1966 emblems, since those have plastic inserts for coloring, while the 1965's have ceramic. This will run you about $40 for the pair, including shipping.
• Other supplies you will need are heavy duty (50 lb test) fishing line, Industrial Size JB Weld, Goof Off, rubbing alcohol, sandpaper and 3M Emblem Adhesive. This probably totals about $20.
• Recommended tools are bolt cutters, sandpaper, a heat gun, a bench vise and a Dremel. However, you can always improvise!

Removing the existing emblems.

• Remove the existing GT Emblems by warming with a heat gun and sawing behind the emblem with the fishing line. I found it easiest to start from the right side of the "T", and work around to the "G". There are two alignment holes in approximately the middle of the emblem, but the new emblems will cover them. You will be left with a nasty, sticky mess of what looks like rubber cement.
• Remove the gunk with a soft cloth and plenty of Goof Off. This will take awhile, but be gentle and patient.
• Wash down the area with car soap and water. You may see an outline of the "GT" emblem because of the lack of weathering on the paint. This is fine, as long as you did a good job getting the gunk off.
• Hold the 1965 GT emblems up to the car to see how they look. Not only is this a good morale booster, but it also has practical value. The emblems have a hollow back, and two posts that align with two holes on the side of the 1965 Mustang. Of course, these posts don't align with the holes on your car! To install the emblems, you're going to have to remove the bottom posts with a set of bolt cutters.

Prepare the emblems

• Use the bolt cutters to remove the bottom post from each emblem. I cut mine down to slightly inside the hollow back.
• Clamp each emblem in the bench vise using a towel for padding, and use your bit of choice in the Dremel to rough up the shiny bottom of the emblems. This will help the JB Weld (automotive epoxy) adhere better.
• Blow all the dust out, and mix the two parts of JB Weld per the directions.
• Fill the inside of each emblem approximately halfway with the gray JB Weld mix. Be careful not to get any on the shiny outside! This stuff is like working with molasses in January, so be patient. I used plastic silverware to get it into the emblems.
• Let the JB Weld dry and cure for 24 hours.
• Use the sandpaper to rough up the top of the JB Weld so the second layer will bond to the first. Blow the dust off.
• IMPORTANT NOTE: When sanding the JB Weld, do NOT allow the dust to abrade the front of the emblem. I have some small scratches in mine from this.
• Use masking tape to cover the edges of the emblems to protect it from the JB Weld. I didn't end up needing it, but I figured the extra minute or two was better than the alternative.
• Finish filling the emblems with JB Weld, and do NOT overfill. Fill them just to the top. The JB Weld is still a fluid, so it will settle on its own.
• As the JB Weld is drying, keep an eye on it for the first hour or two (every 5-10 minutes or so) to make sure the surface is level. You may have to prop the top up, since the bottom is deeper. If you get any high spots, the emblem will not fit flush to the side of the car. Allow the JB Weld to cure for 24 hours.
• Use sandpaper to rough up the second layer of JB Weld. Sand down anything that comes above the edges of the emblems. Blow the dust off, and remove any excess with a wet paper towel.

Prepare the car, and attach the emblems

• On the side of the car, wipe down the area around the emblems with rubbing alcohol and a soft closth. Hit it around 4-5 times to remove any wax.
• Do a test run without the adhesive, and make sure the emblems line up flush against the side of the car.
• Apply the 3M Emblem Adhesive to the back of the emblem in a thin layer. I used a piece of folder cardboard to spread it around. I took it to within 1/16" of an inch of the side to prevent any overflow.
• Insert the top post in the top hole, and press the emblem against the side of the car. Hold it there for the recommended 3 minutes. I chose to do the passenger side first, since I didn't have to look at that one as much! I also put the emblem with the slight scuffs from the JB Weld dust there, too.
• Back up a few feet and make sure you have it aligned as straight as possible. At this point, you can still adjust it without spreading too much glue around. Wipe off any excess glue with Goof Off.
• Follow the same procedure with the drivers side. Allow the emblem adhesive to cure for 24 hours.

Take a look at some of the Wyatt and Pepper Pictures.

Check out the Wyatt and Ally Pictures.